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Home mySSlife Off the Menu A taste of the ocean in Cowtown: Eddie V’s hits almost every note in fine dining symphony

A taste of the ocean in Cowtown: Eddie V’s hits almost every note in fine dining symphony

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    If you’re headed to the world-famous Fort Worth Arts District, leave time for a visit to Eddie V’s Prime Seafood and Steak restaurant. It’s right across the street – literally – from the Modern Art Museum, making it an obvious and convenient choice for fine dining.

    The ultra-hip V Lounge opens at 4 p.m., with dinner reservations beginning at 5 p.m. in the mid-centry modern dining room.
    We started our visit with drinks and appetizers. The experienced bar tender knew just what to do when I asked for “very little sugar” in my Mojito. It was darn near perfect, and I could have had two or six more, had I not been the trip’s designated driver.
    Pat Lawrence, my partner in all good things, ordered a peach margarita and proclaimed it delicious, as was her chilled gulf shrimp ($14), accompanied by atomic horseradish and spicy mustard.
    I tried the Louisiana oysters ($14 per dozen) with Mignonette sauce. My pallette is not nearly sophisticated enough to enjoy vinegar, shallots and cracked pepper with shellfish. A simple red sauce with extra horseradish will suffice, thank you very much.
    The presentation was nice, but the oysters themselves were anemic, not plump, juicy or sweet like the ones Johnny Cace’s in Longview grows in their private beds. Lesson learned, I hope.
    Leaving the lovely lounge was difficult, but it was soon time for the main attraction.
    The dining room at this particular Eddie V’s (they also have locations in Austin, Dallas, Houston, Tampa and Phoenix) takes its cue from Las Vegas of the late 1950s, early 1960s. Its booths and tables exist in near-darkness. How dark is it, you ask??Well, it’s so dark that our waiter had to use a pen flashlight when talking to us about the daily special and suggested side dishes. Lots of ambiance and little light makes for a great experience – once your orders have been placed.
    Our waiter was a terrific young man named Matthew whose passion for his job was evident, as he glided through the space all evening, making sure his guests were happy.
    Matthew took a lot of time explaining Eddie V’s extensive offerings.
    For our second course, we both settled on the Maine Lobster and Shrimp Bisque ($9). Eddie V’s bisque is not thick and creamy, but it’s packed full of flavor and shellfish. It’s the first time I’ve had bisque with more than just a spoonful or two of lobster. It’s a serious bowl of luxury.
    We followed Matthew’s advice for our main course.
    Pat had the haddock ($38) with a fresh artichoke salad and I ordered the North Atlantic Lemon Sole ($27) encrusted with a yummy oregano-based coating.     
    Not sure where they source their seafood, but if the fish had been any fresher, it would have been flopping all over the table calling itself sushi.
    Of special mention should be the size of the entrees. Each order could easily serve two. (Lunch the next day was certainly tasty.)
    We added steamed asparagus ($9) with Hollandaise sauce and truffle macaroni and cheese ($9), the new “it” side dish. Both were lovely.
    Eddie V's also offers premium black angus steaks, ranging from an 8 oz. center cut filet mignon ($38) to a 16 oz. prime New York strip au poivre with cracked black peppercorn and cognac sauce ($47).
    It would have been nice to try some of Eddie V's special bananas Foster cake or creme brulé, but we were simply stuffed. Not even enough room for a cup of coffee.
    Even though it’s a 3-hour drive, I would go back to Eddie V’s at the drop of a hat. It was an almost-perfect experience.

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Eddie V’s is located at 3100 West 7th (right at the intersection of University and Camp Bowie Blvd. Their hours are Sunday - Thursday, 4 p.m. until 11 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 4 p.m. until midnight. Call 817-336-8000 for reservations, which are recommended. Ask for Matthew and tell him the News-Telegram sent you.

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